Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Gunung Agung (3142 mdpl)

16-17 Agustus 2012
Margaretha Quina
Pendakian melalui Jalur Besakih

TRANSPORTASI
  • Opsi 1: Kendaraan pribadi. [dalam perjalanan ini: motor] Menggunakan motor, dapat ditempuh selama 2-3 jam perjalanan dari Denpasar ke arah Klungkung. Motor dan helm dapat dititipkan ke warung di dekat Pura Besakih.
  • Opsi 2: Kendaraan umum. Dari terminal Ubung perjalanan dilanjutkan ke Klungkung menggunakan bis ¾. Setelah itu berganti kendaraan dengan angkutan umum yang berupa minibus menuju Besakih. Berhenti di Pura Besakih.
  • Opsi 3: Pick-up service. [jika menggunakan jasa guide atau travel agent] Biasanya travel agent menawarkan pula jasa penjemputan dan pengembalian turis. 

PENGINGAPAN & WARUNG

Tidak ada tempat penginapan ala Basecamp yang memungkinkan di sekitar Pura Besakih. Bagaimanapun daerah tersebut memiliki banyak hostel / rumah penduduk yang dapat diinapi. Terdapat beberapa warung serta toilet umum di dekat pura. Perbekalan basah berupa ketupat, pepes, air mineral, dapat ditemukan di pagi – sore hari di warung tersebut. Apabila menggunakan kendaraan pribadi, dapat diparkir di dekat Pura dengan menitipkan kepada pemilik warung. 

BASECAMP & PENDAFTARAN

Pendaftaran dilakukan di Kepolisian Sektor Rendang, dari arah Denpasar berada di sebelah kiri jalan. Dibutuhkan fotokopi KTP/Passport dan biaya pendaftaran Rp 10.000,-

JALUR PENDAKIAN

Tidak terdapat penanda Pos ataupun Shelter di Gunung Agung. Secara umum landmark yang dapat ditemukan adalah:
  • Pura Besakih
  • Pura Telaga Mas
  • Batu Tulis / Boycamp
  • Puncak Agung

Pura Besakih – Pura Telaga Mas

Waktu tempuh: 45 menit
Jika ditempuh dengan berjalan kaki, dapat mengikuti jalanan aspal atau melalui kebun penduduk. Jika tidak bersama orang yang paham jalur, tidak disarankan melalui kebun. Sebenarnya hingga Pura Telaga Mas masih bisa ditempuh dengan motor/mobil, dan parkir di depan Pura Telaga Mas. Di depan pura terdapat bale-bale, namun tidak terdapat toilet di sini. Terkadang, ada ibu-ibu yang menjual kopi/makanan instan. Biasanya orang lokal akan bersembahyang dahulu di pura ini sebelum melanjutkan perjalanan.

Pura Telaga Mas – Batu Tulis (Boycamp)

Waktu tempuh: 5 jam – 7 jam
Sebenarnya jalur cukup jelas apabila dilakukan di pagi hari. Dari Pura Telaga Mas, ikuti jalan ke arah hutan, dan ambillah jalur yang mengarah ke kanan. Selama perjalanan, akan ditemui beberapa pura, ditandai dengan banyaknya canang yang ditempatkan di pangkalnya. Setengah perjalanan, terdapat percabangan jalan kecil ke arah kanan, yang merupakan jalan ke arah pura lain dimana terdapat sumber air, namun letaknya sangat jauh. Ikuti jalur utama yang terus lurus. Vegetasi berupa pepohonan rimbun masih akan meneduhkan hingga mencapai Batu Tulis. Batu Tulis sendiri merupakan tebing-tebing batu raksasa yang cukup luas, dan merupakan tempat ideal untuk menyaksikan matahari tenggelam ataupun bermalam. Tepat sebelum Batu Tulis dimungkinkan mendirikan tenda, namun tempatnya sangat kecil. Biasanya pendaki akan tidur di balik batu-batu besar atau cerug-cerug tanpa tenda, cukup dengan sleeping bag atau raincoat mengingat suhu di Gunung Agung cenderung hangat.

Padang ilalang saat golden sunset di Boycamp

Batu Tulis – Puncak Agung

Waktu tempuh: 1,5 jam – 3 jam
Dari Batu Tulis, tidak lagi ditemukan vegetasi hingga Puncak Agung. Pertama-tama akan ditemui jalur yang berbatu-batu curam, selanjutnya berpasir tanpa jalur dengan kanan kiri jurang, disarankan jangan terpisah terlalu jauh dari pendaki lain. Pemandangan lampu-lampu kota dan bintang terlihat jelas di sini. Puncak sejati Agung adalah puncak ketiga setelah melewati 2 puncak semu. Jalan menuju puncak sejati curam dan sempit, seringkali pula disertai angin yang cukup kencang.

Cotton field saat matahari tenggelam di Gn. Agung
Matahari terbit dari puncak Gn. Agung
Gn. Batur dan Gn. Abang dari puncak Gn. Agung

KETERANGAN TAMBAHAN

  • Perjalanan turun cukup licin dan berdebu, hati-hati apabila berlari.
  • Referensi lain dapat dilihat di http://www.indobackpacker.com/2004/10/30/gunung-agung-2/ (catatan: terdapat kesalahan dalam menyebutkan terminal Ubud; yang dimaksud adalah terminal Ubung)
  • Terdapat pantangan yang perlu diperhatikan ketika mendaki Gunung Agung:
1.       Tidak diperkenankan naik bagi wanita yang sedang mengalami menstruasi
2.       Tidak boleh membawa daging babi dan/atau sapi, dalam bentuk apapun

[opini subjektif / pelajaran kali ini]

  • Pendakian Gunung Agung biasanya dilakukan selama 1 hari yang dimulai tengah malam dan berakhir di siang hari. Jangan terburu-buru! Gunung Agung menyimpan keindahan luar biasa pada saat matahari terbenam, di malam hari, dan juga saat matahari terbit. Pendakian di pagi hari dengan menginap di Boycamp, lalu dilanjutkan summit attack untuk matahari terbit sangat disarankan.
  • Beberapa referensi menyebutkan bahwa pendakian melalui Pura Besakih diwajibkan didampingi guide. Sebenarnya, hal ini tidak mutlak berlaku. Secara administratif ketika melakukan pendaftaran, mandatory guide tidak dipermasalahkan bagi pendaki lokal yang telah mengetahui medan. Untuk informasi & dasar hukum yang lebih akurat, silakan hubungi Polsek Rendang (mohon share jika mengetahui nomornya)
  • Menurut beberapa teman Mapala di Bali, justru guide-lah yang terkadang ‘menemukan’ pendaki yang bingung kemudian mengharuskan digunakannya jasa guide untuk menghindari hal-hal yang tidak diinginkan. Di sisi lain, jalur Besakih memang memiliki rekaman ‘orang tersesat’ yang cukup banyak.
  • Jika ingin mendaki Gunung Agung dengan menghindari guide, berikut adalah beberapa hal yang dapat dilakukan. Namun patut diingat bahwa keselamatan harus tetap diutamakan, jangan mendaki tanpa pemahaman mengenai jalur.
1.       Gunakan Jalur Selat (Pasar Agung) atau Budakeling; atau
2.       Jika ingin melalui Besakih, mendakilah pada pagi hari. Kebanyakan pendakian dilakukan pada malam hari untuk mengejar matahari terbit, lalu segera turun kembali. Dengan mendaki di pagi hari, probabilitas dicegat guide lebih kecil;
3.       Mendakilah bersama orang lokal / komunitas Mapala. Manfaatkan event pendakian rutin atau pendakian massal, carilah informasi melalui jejaring sosial.

Thursday, October 25, 2012

after graduation


How strange life is.


Who shape your life? You. But I have never shaped mine. They shape themselves with the webs I can't even guess by fulfilling what I was afraid of. Fulfilling what my heart actually wants, but are avoided by my head for many practical reasons.

My dream to work in the field of environmental / human rights law was made for an essay when applying for a scholarship. When I surprisingly won the scholarship, I suddenly have a tangible dream, a vision of who I want to be.

I never wanted international law as my major; it was a one day decision to be written in the essay, and now I am an international law graduate. I used to dream to work in the lawfirm with best salary as a fresh graduate, but I gave away all my chances to apply to such firms for a vision I wrote in that essay.

Yes, it was an essay of two pages which have brought me here. Or that scholarship. Or the interviewer. Whatever. The point is I'm here, surprisingly. 180 degrees from the girl I knew in the early years of my uni life, who buried her books of philosophy and left her pursuit of truth to live practically peace. Who always preferred money and commercial law and the big firm things and rejected her conscience to be in the mud. Who swore she won't be able to live with the typical NGO / academician lifestyle. Who hated activists and mocked researchers. Who unfortunately always be brought back to her avoided nature by various incidental occasions.

Well, I don't know whether I'll walk further and finally be where I want to be or not. But I think starting from the lowest point is worth trying. Challenge myself to replace my prodigal side with an earthy one is effective. Sure I won't give up my dream on marrying a rich mafia, but hey, I still have that spirit not to let myself unable to have my fun at any circumstances! Nah, good luck with the new start, star!

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Gunung Arjuno (3339 mdpl) & Welirang (3156 mdpl)


27 – 29 Agustus 2012;
Huda Robbani & Margaretha Quina;
Pendakian Gunung Arjuno melalui jalur Tretes (Pasuruan, Jawa Timur)

Gunung Arjuno


TRANSPORTASI
  • Dari terminal Arjosari, Malang, menumpang bus tujuan Surabaya (Bungurasih) dan berhenti di Pandaan (Rp 10.000), vice versa. Biasanya bus paling malam berangkat pukul 22.00, atau lebih cepat.
  • Dilanjutkan dengan ojek (Rp 20.000) / angkot (Rp 7.000) ke Tretes, turun di depan Hotel Tanjung. Basecamp Arjuno-Welirang terletak di seberang hotel Tanjung.
  • Apabila ingin memulai pendakian dari Pet Bocor, dapat menumpang ojek (Rp 15.000) dari depan Basecamp.

PENGINAPAN

Apabila berencana untuk bermalam di Tretes dan mulai mendaki di pagi hari, banyak terdapat penginapan (villa / hotel, bukan hostel) di Tretes, namun dimungkinkan pula untuk tidur di depan (bukan di dalam) basecamp.

BASECAMP & PENDAFTARAN

Pendaftaran Arjuno & Welirang dapat dilakukan pada saat itu juga di Basecamp. Syaratnya adalah menitipkan kartu identitas (KTP/KTM/Passport) dan melapor kembali pada saat turun. Tidak ada jam operasional yang pasti bagi Basecamp Arjuno Welirang, petugas akan menutup Basecamp apabila diperkirakan tidak ada lagi pendaki yang naik / turun, biasanya di atas pukul 22.00.

JALUR PENDAKIAN TRETES

  • Pos PHPA Tretes
  • Shelter 1: Pet Bocor
  • Shelter 2: Kokopan
  • Shelter 3: Pondokan
  • Puncak Arjuno / Puncak Welirang

Pos PHPA (Basecamp) Tretes – Pet Bocor

Waktu tempuh: + 30 menit
Dapat ditempuh melalui bagian samping Basecamp (melewati palang) dengan mengikuti jalur berbatu hingga menemukan simpang 3, lalu belok ke kiri. Alternatif lain adalah terus naik ke atas dari Basecamp mengikuti jalan motor. Pet Bocor ditandai dengan sebuah warung dan tanah lapang yang dapat dipakai berkemah.

Pet Bocor – Kokopan

Waktu tempuh: + 2 jam – 4 jam
Hanya ada satu jalur dari Pet Bocor ke Kokopan yang merupakan jalan menanjak berbatu-batu yang sebagian besar tidak dinaungi pepohonan rindang. Jika pendakian dilakukan pada siang hari, sebaiknya pendaki menyiapkan peralatan tempur untuk melindungi diri dari sengatan matahari. Terdapat beberapa jalur pintas yang cukup jelas di sebelah kiri jalan melalui semak-semak. Di Kokopan terdapat juga warung yang biasanya buka di akhir minggu, namun tidak dapat dipastikan kapan warung ini buka/tutup. Selain itu, di Kokopan dapat ditemukan sumber air yang cukup melimpah dan mudah diambil.

Kokopan – Pondokan

Waktu tempuh: + 3 jam – 5 jam
Jalur utama Kokopan – Pondokan juga sangat jelas, namun sedikit lebih teduh dibandingkan perjalanan Pet Bocor – Kokopan. Setengah jalan pertama masih relatif gersang, namun setelah itu di kiri kanan dapat ditemui hutan yang indah dengan lebih sedikit jalur pintas. Pondokan ditandai dengan plang “Pondokan” dan perkampungan penambang belerang. Terdapat petunjuk ke arah atas (lurus) untuk menuju Puncak Welirang, dan ke arah kiri untuk menuju Puncak Arjuno. Tenda dapat didirikan di ujung atas (ke arah Welirang) perkampungan penambang, sebelum vegetasi. Di Pondokan ini juga terdapat sumber air, namun seringkali kering di musim kemarau.

Pondokan – Puncak Arjuno

Waktu tempuh: + 2jam – 4 jam
Perjalanan ke Puncak Arjuno melewati jalur yang setapak yang ditandai dengan pita-pita di sepanjang jalur. Ikuti saja pita-pita ini, maka pendaki akan sampai ke puncak Arjuno setelah melewati 3 puncak semu. Puncak Arjuno terdiri dari batu-batu besar dan merupakan puncak paling ujung, sekitar 30 menit – 1 jam dari puncak semu pertama.

Awan badai di perjalanan menuju puncak Arjuno

[catatan: Lembah Kijang]
Setelah berjalan lebih kurang 30 menit, pendaki akan melihat sebuah lembah yang disebut sebagai Lembah Kijang. Terdapat sebuah pos resmi di ujung Lembah Kijang dimana terdapat sumber air, yang biasanya masih tersedia di musim kemarau ketika tidak ada air di Pondokan. Di pos ini, pendaki juga dapat mendirikan tenda. Namun, apabila mengikuti jalur pita-pita di atas, pendaki akan langsung naik ke punggungan yang mengarah ke puncak, bukan turun ke lembah. Seringkali pendaki tersesat di lembah ini ketika turun, karena tidak ada petunjuk arah yang jelas. Di dekat pos, ada sebuah plang “Rawan Kebakaran”; apabila anda tersesat, ambillah jalur naik dari lembah di dekat plang tersebut, lalu belok kanan ke arah Pondokan atau belok kiri ke arah puncak.

Pondokan – Puncak Welirang

Waktu tempuh: + 2 jam – 3 jam
Perjalanan ke Welirang melalui sebuah jalan setapak yang cukup lebar, berpasir dan berdebu, yang biasa digunakan oleh penambang belerang untuk membawa belerang dalam gerobak. Jalurnya sangat jelas dan hanya ada satu jalur utama, walaupun begitu terdapat jalur pintas di sebelah kiri jalan melalui hutan di atas jalur utama. Mendekati puncak, pendaki akan menemukan jalur berbatu yang tersusun rapih berundak-undak ke arah kanan (biasanya terpasang pita di perdu) yang merupakan jalur ke arah puncak Welirang. Jangan mengikuti jalur pasir, karena merupakan jalur ke tambang belerang. Gas belerang akan terasa di siang hari, sebaiknya summit Welirang dilakukan sebelum siang. Puncak sejati Welirang ditemukan setelah 3 puncak semu.

Kawah belerang di dekat puncak Welirang
[keterangan tambahan]


[opini subjektif: pelajaran kali ini]

  • ·         Jika ingin mendaki Arjuno & Welirang dalam satu pendakian, sebaiknya gunakan jalur Tretes. Pendakian combo dapat ditempuh dalam 3 hari:
1.       Hari Pertama: Berangkat pagi dari sekitar jam 7, tuntaskan hingga tiba di Lembah Kijang (lebih kurang 20 – 30 menit dari Pondokan) ke arah Arjuno, lalu bermalam dan istirahat.
2.       Hari Kedua: Summit attack Arjuno dimulai pukul 7 – 8 pagi, lalu kembali ke camp dan segera berbenah menuju Pondokan.
3.       Hari Ketiga: Summit attack Welirang dimulai pukul 5 pagi, lalu kembali ke Tretes hari itu juga.
  • Jangan melintasi Lembah Kijang di malam hari karena medannya yang ilalang dengan banyak cabang berpotensi menyesatkan. Jika ingin kembali ke Pondokan setelah summit Arjuno, usahakan saat masih terang.
  • Di musim kemarau, air rawan dan butuh perbekalan ekstra. Sumber air terakhir yang aman dan pasti ada di Kokopan. Komunikasi dengan pendaki lain yang baru turun mengenai ketersediaan air sangat penting.
  • Hati-hati meninggalkan barang bawaan / tenda pada saat summit attack. Kebanyakan pendaki membawa seluruh barang pada saat summit attack karena pernah terjadi kasus kehilangan. Antisipasi dengan gembok & membawa barang-barang penting jika ingin meninggalkan tenda.
  • Jangan lupa membawa masker untuk mengantisipasi angin / bau belerang. Terkadang angin sangat kencang di puncak Welirang.

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

SEA Trip: Hanoi and Ha Long Bay, Vietnam


CAUTIONS: This post does not contain any practical information. All is unimportant stuff filled with subjective judgment. Do not continue reading if you're currently doing research for your trip. Read this if you miss me ;)

Day 6: 05/08

Morning in Hanoi was too fast, too rushing. I arrived at about 5.30 about 6km from the city center. Unfortunately I met some crazy boys who preferred to go there on foot to spending money on taxi and get scammed; and so do I. We really walked 6km and separated, they took a train to Sapa and I continued by myself to Old Quarter. Here is the only good picture I got from Hanoi, and I still can remember the warmth it gave for seeing so many people enjoying time, frozen in time.

Hoan Kiem Lake, Old Quarter, Hanoi

By 8 am, I departed to Ha Long City. Ha Long Bay is definitely charming. I booked the ticket from any proper tourism office i saw in old quarter, but the price I got was reasonable ($50 for a 2D/1N tour) and it includes 4 times meals, a room (shared with one other person), an english speaking guide (not really good actually), and one stop at the cave also kayaking. The bus took about 4 hours from Hanoi to Ha Long City and we waited at the harbor about 1 hour, so we started at 1 pm. They didn’t give us any itinerary so we just followed the guide. The meals are pretty boring, not really delicious nor interesting, however I should thank God since that’s the only chance I eat properly. You can book exclude the meals for $40.

These are the Ha Long boats!

Ha Long Bay in bad luck, bad weather!

 I got an interesting group consisted of 16 people, all of them are French, Germany, US, and Denmark. There’s a fun (yet scary) accident while we did the kayak. The two French guys flipped their kayak far away from our boat. There was me and Evan (an USA stranger who share the kayak with me), and we offered some help, trying to flip the boat and emptying the water but it just didn’t work. So we decided to tie their boat and sway together until the boat. Two of the USA’s friends, Zach and Ben, went before us to tell to the boat that their tourist had an accident. After like 30 minutes of hardwork, we finally saw a fisherman boat going towards us. But it’s really surprising that right after they took us to the boat, they started hitting and punching the French guys, even almost do it with s wooden block. Evan was almost hit too, but fortunately it’s just a little. We came back to the boat and I don’t know how the French guys settled this. In the night, I fell asleep at the deck and suddenly it’s been 11 pm, so I went directly to the room. Actually it was nice to sleep outside since the moon was almost full, too bad we had storm that night.

the hilariously drowned French couple
 
oh please tell me this is hilariously fun!
Day 7: 06/08

The sunrise expectation was a big failure since we just had storm on the night, and it’s still cloudy and a little rain on that day. But Ha Long Bay is nice, really.

My total failed Ha Long Bay sunrise attempt

SEA Trip: Hoi An and Hue, Vietnam

CAUTIONS: This post does not contain any practical information. All is unimportant stuff filled with subjective judgment. Do not continue reading if you're currently doing research for your trip. Read this if you miss me ;)


Day 5: Hoi An & Hue

Hoi An and Hue are super nice for transit cities. I didn’t go around Hoi An, but the scenery of rice fields surrounded by mountains really was a great breakfast for my eyes. There are also many rivers and canals filled with traditional boat, and we rode around the mountain which made the view more beautiful.

the scenery along Hoi An to Hue

We arrived at Hue at 1, and I went straight to the Citadel. It was a huge complex of Vietnam Kingdom, consisted of some palaces, many pavilions and a forbidden city. I tried to explore the Imperial Palace but not even finished. It was all charming, and I’m pretty sure its maintenance costs a lot, a fair price for 80.000 D (for local only 27.000 D). You’ll feel like brought back to the era of the kingdom. Too bad, not much information can be gained regarding the palace and the other sites, neither proper direction board telling us the way to go. There’s only one map given in the beginning of the tour, which is really insufficient even to know where your direction is, since you are surrounded by giant walls and blocks of palaces. It made me feel kind-of lost right there, consequently I didn’t explore efficiently and only hit the places I saw. Anyway, near the gate of the inside Citadel (so the Imperial Palace is the Citadel inside Citadel), there are some sugar bit sellers, which only cost 10.000 D for one fresh glass; a good treat after exhausting walk. The bus left earlier, about 4.45. A little warning for those who take the bus in Vietnam, always remember to be on the bus counter 30 minutes before the written time in your ticket (or the changed time, for sometimes they change the time 30 min – 1 hour earlier on the spot where you arrive). It might be late, might be earlier. That’s all for today, let’s see how pretty are actually Hanoi and Ha Long Bay tomorrow.

One of the Complex in Citadel; the Queen Pavilion if I'm not mistaken

Citadel, Hue (I can't remember which part it is, for it's HUGE)
One of the alley at the Forbidden City inside of Citadel, Hue

Thursday, August 2, 2012

SEA Trip: Nha Trang, Vietnam


CAUTIONS: This post does not contain any practical information. All is unimportant stuff filled with subjective judgment. Do not continue reading if you're currently doing research for your trip. Read this if you miss me ;)
 
Day 3: August 2, 2012
I was really pissed off today. Now I’m violently happy. So, let me introduce you to Nha Trang.
This city is never been in my itinerary. It supposed to be only for a 12-hours transit before Hoi An and Hue. But, the ticket seller gave me an open ticket, causing me couldn’t get any seat to Hoi An while I arrived at Nha Trang in the morning, turned to be full booked already. I still insisted to wait until evening, and while waiting I found that this city is not really something, but ummm, you can make everything looks charming, aren’t you?
I have a really high standard for beach, so this charming beach surrounded with mountain, which is objectively not really beautiful, does not really make me turn wild with happiness. Nha Trang has four mountainous islands across the beach, making its sunrise magnificent with the mist around the silhouette of the islands. The city’s also a nice appeal, filled with noodle stalls, touristic café, dive centers, cheap yet clean guesthouses, all is sufficient. I rented a bike today and spent my days riding: it was a horrible ride considering the crazy drivers and chaotic traffic seems like to be anywhere in Vietnam, even in this charming little city. And since bicycle does not have mirror to watch your back, I was quite afraid that any barbaric driver would hit my back. Really, I swear it is scary yet tough experience, now I can argue that my driving ability has elevated at certain point. Haha.

Nha Trang Beach

You cross to the islands right from Nha Trang Beach
The only sightseeing I visited was National Oceanography Museum, about 6km ride from the center, but turned to be average, non-impressive museum. However I appreciate the work they do there, collecting and maintaining thousands of species definitely not an easy task. After that, I tried to see the pagoda, but the road was complicated and the riding was scary, so I just went back to the beach. I tried to find Lanterns restaurant too, a Lonely Planet pick, but unable to find it either. Finally, I bought a street sandwich filled with roasted pork (20.000 D, delicious!) and fresh mixed juice (20.000 D). In the morning I tried Pho 24, a noodle franchise which could be found in Vietnam’s big cities or touristic areas, a nice bowl of beef noodle with average price (39.000 D)

National Oceanographic Museum of Nha Trang. Err, to be honest, I prefer Sea World

Traveler's happy meal: Crocodile with Five Spice!

And, they have hedgehog, civet cat, snakes, etc. Nyam!
Today’s companion named Claudia, but I didn’t spend the whole day with her, just come and go anytime I want. She went sunbathing and I went riding, give me a nice place to rest when the midday sunheat became too strong.
And finally this is the thing that makes me happy tonight. The hotel! Nhat Thien hotel, located in a small alley near 24/40A Hung Vuong, $10 per night (you can share it for two), bright and clean, AC, wi-fi, hot shower, refrigerator, TV, fan (come on you actually have AC already), king-size bed, and bath equipment (incl’ towel). This is too much for me. And nearby this place, you can find a restaurant selling unique dishes, such as hedgehog and forest civet cat. Tomorrow I will do the sunrise, repack and use this internet facility until my time to check out, and then lie down under the sun until my bus departs. Oh life’s so good!

SEA Trip: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

CAUTIONS: This post does not contain any practical information. All is unimportant stuff filled with subjective judgment. Do not continue reading if you're currently doing research for your trip. Read this if you miss me ;)



Day 1: July 31, 2012 (HCMC)

Arrived at the Saigon Airport at 7.40 pm. The last bus 152 was at 6pm, so the option would be taking a taxi, which will cost 150.000 D plus guesthouse for sleeping, or sleep at the airport and cost nothing. I took the second option. Because it’s still early and I really had no idea of what to do, I decided to take dinner: a bottle of water which cost 15.000 D (normally 4.500 D) and a 30.000 D croissant. At first I slept outside the airport, but then a taxi driver annoyed me so I made attemp to find a better place to sleep. Lucky me to met the annoying driver, since it was because of him I finally discovered that the airport’s greeters hall is a really nice place to sleep. Go to the second floor and go straight, you will find some long-chairs which are originally restaurant sofas.

Day 2: August 1, 2012 (HCMC & on the way to Na Thrang)

They say Ho Chi Minch City is a restless busy city, with crowds and traffic, travellers and business. And that’s all just right. The first thing I discover was it was really chaotic in the road, even in the crossroads with traffic lights, you can see motorcycles just abandon the red lights. The result is: it is necessary to possess certain skill to cross HCMC roads. Even if it’s one way street, you still can find bikers go to opposite direction. Crossing the road require you to look carefully on both directions at the same time, because you never know what’s coming.
After purchasing ticket to Hanoi from TM’s Brother Cafe (cost 35 USD), I walk to Reunification Palace (30.000 D), which turn to be a dissapointment because both the architecture and the collection is just as ordinary as any old hotels. There’s one interesting point about the bunker, but nothing more.

Reunification Palace

 The next destination, War Remrants Museum, was a real surprise. Lonely planet descibes it as “a unique, brutal, and essential stop” and I would be lying if I disagreed. Most people came with full spirit, and finish the tour in exhaustion. Exhausted physically, morally, spiritually. What happened to Vietnam during the Vietnam War is the reason behind this torture towards the museum visitor. All the photographs, words, and installations show us the hostility of the war, and the continuing pain caused by it. I started the tour by looking at the tiger cage section, which explain how the prisoners were tortured. I almost shouted for seeing a mannequin, really skinny and naked with hopelessly sorrow face inside one of the dark chamber. And when I read the explanation regarding torture methods of the prisoners, I feel like I could throw up. Even when I’m writing this I still can feel the bad feeling inside my stomach creeping to my throat. I continued to the touching collection of campaign for peace in Vietnam, also some photographs and explanation about Vietnam diplomation history. One gift from a US troop attracted me: a collection of honour medals given to army personnels for their ‘achievement’ in the war, with a sentence attached to it “To Vietnam people, I was wrong. I am sorry”. Other collections are also touching, but the best is yet to come when you reach the second and third floor. Collection in second floor shows you photographs of the war victims: the most heart-breaking is the “Agent Orange” section, showing innocent children who are disabled because of the genetic harm of the US biological weapon which contains dioxine. I hardly able to swallow my saliva on seeing those pictures, yet hardly able to stop myself from reading the explanations of each pictures, which only causing more heartbreak. Third floor represents the dedication, and also strong emotions, of war photographers of Vietnam War, making them more aesthetic than the second floor. Good technique combined with emotional events, resulted in well-organized sections of touching photos, yet exhaust your emotion and burdening your heart with anger and pain of the Vietnam War. You must visit it yourself to really feel the thrill brought by this museum.

War Remnants Museum; tough from the outside, heartbreaking inside.

Dead body of babies resulted from Agent Orange biological weapon during the Vietnam War.

Photos of 3rd generation of Agent Orange Victims. Thousands of Vietnamnese became disable because of this biological weapon.

 It was rain when I went out of the museum, so I just came into the closest noodle stall near the museum. I was actually really really thirsty combined with some feeling like “I don’t want to eat” but finally I ate a bowl of noodle soup, which turns into a great satisfaction: 25.000 D with free flow free ice tea. In the morning I already tried dry noodle with grilled pork satay (20.000 D) and some bubble tea (20.000 D, also with free flow free tea), all was great. There, I met a Czech guy who gave me some words of wisdom for traveling, from whom I finally decided to go on foot to the Emperor Jade Pagoda.
The walk was quite far, a 25 minutes walk, but a fun journey although the pagoda itself wasn’t charming at all, at least in my opinion. I was getting used to read the map and know the streets, besides I can enjoy the city charm and taste the Vietnamnese-seasoned snails (32.000 D) which coincidently seen when I was walking. And finally, heading back to Pham Ngu Lao, I took a taxi to catch my bus which departs at 8: first (and maybe the last) trial of Mai Linh taxi which bring me to a conclusion that this taxi (as other travellers say so) is reliable. However it cost me 52.000 D so I’d rather walk through a different route next time, maybe.

The dissapointing Jade Emperor Pagoda. If you go to HCMC, don't do Pagodas!
The 1-hour waiting at the bus office was really worth, since I could charge this laptop and my cellphone and took a bath (a really improper bath, but well it’s a happiness though). The bad thing is: I left my water, and haven’t fold my dirty clothes properly. Ah, well, doesn’t matter. And anyway I have to change my itinerary since the night bus cannot go straight to Hue, so I should adjust another one night in Na Thrang and delete the other item. Ah, well, just good night. So long, HCMC!