Monday, January 6, 2014

Bangka Island, Bangka Belitung

DISCLAIMER: Again, not a backpacker's trip. This was a family trip with my ageing (rockstar) parents, thus the activities are adjusted to their needs and preference.


All beaches in Bangka looks like this. This one is Parai Tenggiri Beach, Sungai Liat


December 28, 2013 - January 1, 2014
Palembang - Pangkalpinang - Palembang

After lengthy considerations, I finally decided to use English for this post since I found no foreigner hanging around this potential island during our trip, while many of the tourists are apparently domestic. This island is definitely charming and have been a considerable destination for decades; the culinary is amazing, but also filled with remarkable stories on environmental degradation caused by illegal tin mining and the silent gap between local and Chinese settlers - a phenomenon you can see in most of Sumatera cities. However in-depth description on some substances aspect will not be made in this writing, since there are too many aspects you can read further. This will only covers some practical guide and description on our trip, which might be useful for you.

Transportation
  • Fly is the easiest way. There is direct flight from Palembang to Pangkalpinang (ours was Sriwijaya Air, around 500k on high season one way), or from Jakarta to Pangkalpinang (around 600k);
  • By boat. Daily ferries Express Bahari leaves early from Bom Baru harbor, Palembang on 6am, takes 3 hours to reach Muntok harbor, Bangka. If your destination is Pangkalpinang (the capital), you'll have additional 3 hours by car (you can buy a travel ticket);
  • To get around the cities: Public transportation is poor. You can hire car (and local drivers) from local provider. Ours was (NAME), Avanza 250k/day without fuel, and 100k/day for the driver, 10% charge for overtime. Contact:

Accommodation

Stay at beaches! Bangka is the island of gigantic stones, and those gigantic stones compose beautiful landscapes around Bangka beaches. The best beaches are located in Sungailiat, about 1 hour away from Pangkalpinang, so if you're interested in listening to the wave all days, staying in Pangkalpinang is not an option. Consider food as well while you pick the hotel, since the best culinary spots are mostly located in Pangkalpinang. However, no backpacker-priced hotels around the beaches (in the cities as well, Bangka hasn't got any backpacker area at all actually), all hotels are above 400k and cheap hostels are not guaranteed neither for its cleanness nor for its reputation. Some options are:
  • Parai Beach Hotel located in Sungailiat (Phone: 0717 - 94888), for published rate see here (don't know if it's still update or not, just call for reservation). Apparently, the best beach all around Bangka Island has been discovered and occupied by this private resort. It is also the most recognized hotel in Bangka Island. However it's a bit difficult for meals if you stay in this complex - the restaurant is expensive and no mini mart around.
  • Tanjung Pesona Resort, Sungailiat (Phone: 0717 - 94560), a bit interesting but the scenery is not as good as Parai.
  • Grand Mutiara Hotel, Pangkalpinang (Phone:), a considerable place to stay if you're looking for good culinary or in a business trip. Read my review in TripAdvisor
  • Bring a tent and stay anywhere! Please bring in mind that not all Bangka beaches are safe for camping, beside it's not customary there, only very few travelers hanging around the island. Mind your belongings all the time is recommended.

PLACES TO SEE

Pasir Padi BeachPangkalpinang. It's apparently ugly from the face, but as you explore to the right corner of the beach you'll find amazing color of big stones and empty beaches; 


Pasir Padi beach looks so boring at a glance, but do explore!

Bangka Botanical GardenPangkalpinang. A really nice 'garden' - is actually private plantation but it's really nice, and there is a cow cattle with sets of cute huge cows like the ones at the bedtime stories cattles;

Indonesia Tin Museum (Museum Timah), Pangkalpinang - a super nice small museum for a small city. The arrangement is interesting, the information given is comprehensive and for common people who doesn't have any knowledge in mining, it's informative enough. There is an interactive film of which you can request to play;
Things to see in Indonesia Tin Museum

For small city like Pangkalpinang, this museum is good enough


Tanjung Pesona Beach, Sungailiat, nice gigantic stones and white sands, but little for exploration. There is a really weird robotic statue standing at the edge of the beach. Entrance fee IDR 10K/15K (weekdays/weekend);


Parai Tenggiri Beach, Sungailiat - the best one so far, no need for spoiler, just go there. The facilities are good but pricey - I bought one magnum for IDR 25k. Make sure you visit the left side of the so-called 'rock island' that looks quiet and isolated;


Behind The Rock Bar of Parai Tenggiri

Matrass Beach, Sungailiat - a nice one with gigantic stones again, from the entrance door, go to the right corner and you'll find green grass with stones appear between the hills, there is a stair to uphill and you can see the scenery of the whole beach, it's nice to see from up there;

Goa Maria, Belinyu, one of my favorite although it's like in the middle of nowhere. There is a really nice garden filled with gigantic old trees with white sands under, making you feel so calm and relax. Beware of the mosquito bites! The otak-otak stall right in front of it is one of the most famous all over Bangka;

Penyusuk Beach, Belinyu, a nice appearance of green grass filled with gigantic stones (remind me of Mt. Padang, takes you back to the stone age), many spaces for exploration. But the water is brown and the wave is high, is so scary feels like you're seeing a mini tsunami. There's an apparently nice island across, in the summer you can hire boat to go there.

Mini tsunami-colored waves, Penyusuk Beach

Penyusuk Beach: Gigantic stones everywhere


What To Eat?

Beside bountiful beaches, the culinary is also amazing. However it's a bit difficult (read: SAD) for those who are allergic to seafood and pork. Go to some other articles for more comprehensive review of the food and drink:
  • Mie Koba, noodle with brown shrimp soup, taste sweet; 
  • Mie Bangka (the Chinese version of pork noodle), Bakmie Akau stall at Kampung Bintang is great enough with IDR 25k/portion; the one at the market (coulnd't remember the name) is also nice but quite more expensive;
  • Lempah (about IDR 60-70k/portion), sweet and sour version of Pindang;
  • Some recommended Chinese food: Mr. Asui, Raja Laut Seafood, Liong Ki. Ask the waiter in advance for the halal foods; 
  • Grilled pork, usually sold in 'motorcycle stalls' - there are 5 sellers in front of the airport, or you can ask your driver to bring you to any Chinese market;
  • Otak-otak in front of Goa Maria, Belinyu.


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