Friday, July 11, 2014

Environmental Autonomy, The Toothless Tiger

Another side-writing from my data collection in Toba Samosir Regency. I don’t mean to insult or shaming anyone, just letting the fact flows a little more to some of us who haven’t known. It’s not an academic writing, and I don’t bring any normative proof or academic analysis, so don’t rely on this for citation in arguing. I make this so you can feel, see from another perspective, and hoping the following elaboration will help anyone who wishes to sense how the system goes in Indonesia, and not oversimplifying things when they deal with anything related to reform in this country.

This time the trophy goes to the local environmental agency of Toba Samosir, whose official name is ‘Local Environmental and Mining Board’. And yes, the miraculous autonomous regime of Toba Samosir mixes the two conflicting bodies – the environmental guardian and destroyer, into one; leaving some chaos and confusion in its internal management. But let’s not talk about it yet.

I must say that the people in this agency is really nice, making me feel bad of writing not-so-good-things about them. They are responsive in picking up the phone, better than some national level government who never picks up the phone or respond to inquiries in proper time. It’s not difficult to make appointment with them and they seem to schedule it well. They let me sneak into EIAs, some company reports on their environmental performance, taking photos of permits, and so on – no suspicion that I might be using those data against them.

However, considering their responsibility and professionalism, I must say they did a bad, really bad job.

Let’s limit this conversation to Asahan River to begin, minimizing your chance to confuse before we dig deeper. The Law delegates many (I mean maaaany) responsibilities to local level government on environmental protection (including permitting, monitoring and enforcement) and environmental management (let’s not talk about this one – it needs a whole book!). One of those is to take care of the water pollution. The local government must study thoroughly what are the conditions needed to ensure a business operation that dump waste into the river will not endanger the river condition and the organism whose life depends on the river – including human. Then, the study result to certain rights, obligation, and prohibition set into the permit – in this case, liquid waste dumping permit. Amongst the study, we must consider the class of the river and its carrying capacity.

“And I’m so curious whast is the class of Asahan river? Its designation, also the water pollution carrying capacity, I can’t find them on Google” – I asked. That man I interviewed, one of the head divisions; said lightly “It has not been determined, Miss,” He continued, “To date, we only have three industries having the liquid waste permit,” Yes, three huge industries, you mean. So, all permits went on without assessment of how bad the river condition was and not taking into account recovery. And all designation continues without counting the possible endangerment inside the river water such as hazardous substances, you mean?

And then, after having issued the permit, local authority surely must be the responsible body to monitor such rights, obligation, and prohibition. The law sets some weird, differing, up to anyone mechanism on this monitoring system (not literally like that but you don’t want hearing me talking about this) and trust it to the local government. Most of the time, the local government trust it solely to the company and keep their hands off this responsibility.

“And how do you publish the data of the ambient water quality?” I asked. And that’s a stupid question because I should’ve begun with “Do you even do the ambient water quality test regularly?” or “Have you determined the exact location (coordinate, I mean) to take samples of the ambient water quality?” or “What is the regular interval you take sample of the water?”. And all the answer is they don’t even do it. Really. They did it once or twice or whatever without any clue of what the law says, and don’t really do something about it (like communicating it to the people).

And what about the effluent control? “Most of the time, we wait for the report from the community if some chaos, like dead fishes, occur,” Oh, and I haven’t mentioned that they haven’t had any complaint and reporting desk, so they usually ‘hear’ it from somewhere. Anyway, they want to make the reporting facilities, they say. Okay, we'll see.

“So how the provincial level governments make the environmental status report? It contains this information and I assume it comes in a bottom-up scheme,” I continued. “Sometimes they involve us in taking the data, but most of the time we will assist them upon request,” the official said. And ‘assist’ actually means top-down coordination from the higher level government.

So, up to this sentence, I will let you guess what this agency does about enforcement. And this is what surprises me the most.

“Yes, that’s actually one of our weaknesses. We don’t have anyone in the law enforcement desk,” he mentioned. Cannot believe what I heard, I asked “But have you ever give any sanction to any company of its violations? Like, during your time serving in this board?” And he mentioned one letter being sent recently to one of the liquid waste dumping permit holder to temporarily stop its operation. I don’t know if he actually confuse between enforcement and temporary stop, because actually the latter is a part of administrative sanction according to our law – while he mentioned no enforcement has ever been conducted. It has made me a bit grateful, but he suddenly added “But we don’t really know if they comply or not, we have not received any follow-up regarding this case,”

And that’s when I think I won’t need any further confirmation on the teeth of environmental law in this country.

“We don’t have the power to supervise and enforce beyond our authority,” I recall what Ministry of Environment Deputy on Law Enforcement told me. And I feel like wanting to write him, “This ‘beyond your authority’ cannot do nothing because they don’t even clear about their structure and work division; nor can reform it since they suffer for amazing rotation of its leader like 7 (seven) changes since 2001; lacking capacity or when they have it they don’t have the budget; they don’t even aware of what are their responsibilities according to the massive amount of regulations at national level,”

No money. No people. No clarity over duty. No leadership.

“And when they have some good people in their structure whom might expose risk to the capital owner, the higher power will kick them straight away,” – simple line that explains everything. One activist told me the story of the Head of that local environmental board who spent 6 months doing really great job, ensuring all obligations met no matter how big the companies are, and readily prepare sanction to non-compliance. And within those 6 months, he was mutated to non-job by the Regent.

I know it has been written in many reports, academic papers, policy brief, etc. But some stories might help people to understand and attached better to these challenges we’re facing, sometimes better than those reports can do. So, here is our challenge, dear brightest stars. We can change it if we want to, but it needs lots of sacrifice. It will question you whether you want to make your feet dirty by stepping into the mud. It will question whether you are strong enough to not be drowned by the mud. It will question you to be creative enough to create a beautiful result of that dirty mud.

And yes, we can start small by demanding.

Monday, July 7, 2014

The Silence of the Victims

“Nothing strengthens authority so much as silence.”
― Leonardo da Vinci 

When everyone who has studied environmental conflicts or victimology might describe this situation I’m trying to explain as ‘common’ – I take the liberty to tell this story from the point of view of mid-class city people who normally can speak boldly to anyone they think annoying their basic rights. It's fine for me to criticize my scholarship, my university, my parents, my employers, when I am equipped with proper argument on my side. And for me, speak what I think is common. Speaking the truth is common. And this is my common sense – as well as everyone else as you can see on people’s blog or opinion or social media.

But some days ago, I recognize that our common sense is not always common. Particularly, not to this people who have been fighting for their homeland; and their clean water and their clean air for decades.


Asahan River at Siruar Village, Toba Samosir

I visited Siruar, a village right at Toba Pulp Lestari’s liquid waste outfall (dumping point) at Asahan River – the place where fight against the gigantic industry has been recorded since early 80s. My goal is to get 50 respondents for my questionnaire, for a research purpose. But it is not only the power of the company that scares me. It is the silence of the people, that they are unwilling to tell their stories and keep it behind their own walls.

“Some month ago, one of the securities of TPL got interviewed by a researcher. Another TPL labor recorded it and gave the video to TPL management. That security who got interviewed was fired some days after,” one of my responded expressed his fears while he’s filling my questionnaire. With fake smile, I comforted him that this is merely for academic purpose and his identity will remain undisclosed. I condemn the company conduct in my head.

Dead fishes were strange. Now, people no longer question it.

The people in Siruar and Porsea have been in the heart of the Toba Pulp Lestari conflict in its prior operation, when the company is still known as Indorayon Inti Utama. The protest begun in 1988, when the persistent victims, who were very strong and solid within the Batak Toba identity, continued to struggled over 2 decades from the soft diplomacy backed by academics and politicians, to the mass and bleeding chaos that takes innocent souls. In this conflict, Professors and Doctors from universities come back to the street, to the indigenous people who lack academic back-ups compared to the huge company. Even mothers and children took part, and one of the most controversial nude protests in Indonesia held by Batak mothers occurred in the late 90s, hottest period of this enduring fight. Even when the legal efforts failed, it has left a strong legacy – the first recognized NGO legal standing in Indonesia was made during the IIU lawsuit conducted by WALHI. Sweet taste of temporary success only lasted a while when IIU operation is closed for by the central government. In Megawati era, the mill began operating again under new paradigm, with the name that those people recognize today with the same power of “you know who” – TPL.

“No one in this village will be willing to speak if you ask them question about TPL. Because we already know what the public officials in the sub-district will do. I will not speak either,” a former activist told me.

After more than 20 years, people at the closest proximity to the mill have finally silenced.

And this silence is scarier for me than the elaboration of the silence of nature that Rachel Carson documented in her monumental Silent Spring. This is the silence of the most distinguished creature on earth who has been gifted with reason, free will, intelligence and conscience. This is the silence of the long-lasting fight who have eventually been forced to give up. This is the silence for money, of the scary trade between sacrificing basic rights and the capitalistic point of necessary growth. This is the silence within the trauma from the entity that should’ve been protecting those individuals, but abusing their power.

And like the sub-disctrict secretary mentioned to us with confidence, “We can’t let just anyone in, even for academic purpose. I don’t dare to let those who wants to take the data regarding environment, or pollution, or anything that can annoy the company. The higher authority will scold. No, it will never be allowed,”

By writing this, I am fully aware that I am exposing myself to libel lawsuit that the company might threatening me with. And that’s the price that I have to pay, in this so-called free and democratic country, to speak of some truth. I’m just hoping this writing will reach out to you, but not to the company, so the people at the village will stay safe. Beware, this is not the authoritarian regime anymore. This is the regime of the capital.

Further readings:

PS. Too bad I can't upload more photos of people for safety reason.

Monday, June 30, 2014

Why Lecturers Better be Charming?

Have I told you that I am always a big fan of charming lecturers? And have I told you the correlation between charming (or hot) lecturers with my list of straight A subjects? If I haven't, let me tell you: although in absence of scientific support (ah I'm too lazy for this!), and although 'charming lecturer' is so ill-defined (if no definition at all), but please bear this as an immature hypotheses: When you do your teaching responsibility so boringly, with only lowest attainable standards of excitement and preparation, you are putting one or some of your students who are potential for A into the risk of getting C, or less. Why? Because some super small things that slip your attention can make your handsomely brainy charm faded. And it's just a turnoff. Really, a student can work so hard, happily, to get an A, if their lecturer are considered 'charming' - at least it's applicable to me :)

I am inviting you to view these two courses on Coursera: "The Global Student's Introduction to U.S. Law" by University of Florida and "Introduction to Environmental Law and Policy" by University of North Carolina Chapel Hill. This is a part of experiential learning, you decide whether my hypotheses is acceptable or not.

This whole thing is only comparing two men teaching hotness and the turnoffs. Or maybe their team. I don't know if it's applicable to female, but you can take it as a comparison and discover it yourself or quit my blog straight away. Let's see who are those lecturers:

This is Prof. Donald Hornstein of University of North Carolina Chapel Hill. A handsome dude, no?



And here is Prof. Pedro A. Malavet from University of Florida. The photo is a lot better in quality. His appearance is okay, too, no? A teddy bear looking man, surely.



So, at this point, without assuming their scholarly work or academic approach or whatever substance they are mastering, I assume you, yes you kittens, still excited to go to school. No?

Now, let me take you to the beginning of the class: The Introduction Part. 



Okay, so now you can make your comments on which one looks more exciting to you.

As for me, I love Prof. Hornstein at the first place, and losing my appetite in University of Florida's course even from the introductory part. And now, although I hate so much to keep writing this, I am forcing myself to share what are the 'exernalities' that (I'm trying to be as objective as possible) influence me in loving or ignoring these lectures.

First: Ambience. Like when we're reading a book, before the materials we want to be attracted by the cover. Look at the backdrop of these two lecturers and now you can write up if one background makes you more comfortable to sit and watch compared to another. Well, to say, this is completely teamwork. To put it to yourself in a class, it can be a nice form of presentation (well it's comparable to backdrop!), a nice setting of the teaching venue, the lighting, sound-system, might be as simple as conducive whiteboard.

Second: Attire and look. Although I am not a supporter of nice attire and I myself a really bad example of it, but I must admit that this is the first time I really notice a few crumples on one's shirt can really make a difference! And also hair styling, and even oil on your face. I mean, come on, look at Prof. Malavet on the initial picture! We all loves him. But then, at the introduction part of the his course, the combination of the video quality and his... Oh my gosh now I must really ensure none of these universities are affiliated with me in the future! Damn freedom of expression!

But let me highlight another win of Prof. Hornstein. At least, for me (and most of environmental law addicts), a hiker. At one lecture, he explain the shirt he's wearing - a 25 years old of Appalachian Trail T-Shirt. It's old and dull and grey and no different than any T-Shirt. But, it is the story behind it that gives me a 'Whoaaaa!' - he completed the Appalachian Trail, the longest hiking trail in the East Coast, 25 years ago with his wife. Come on, kittens, isn't it a 'Whoaaaaa'? At this point, I hope I'm not losing objectivity to these two men. So, my dearest lecturer fellows, you can consider using this trick as well to your students! After this T-Shirt story, Prof. Hornstein definitely have my heart.



And now, back to the issue, we are moving on to the third externality.  

Third: Your presentation. Yes, I mean your power point presentation as well as the way you're delivering it. But let's focus on the first thing first. Look at this picture and tell me which one looks what:





While some Indonesian academics are so confident to maintain their boring, so last decades' approach in making presentation, you yourself can consider if one presentation makes you less excited that the other one. Some nice template, simplicity to navigate the points, elegant themes - that can be some minor things that counts a lot.

But hey, really I'm not writing here to being so insolent towards one of the most amazingly virtuous free-course program and all the hard works that the contributors given. What my point is: You probably can do much better by sacrificing just a little more on non-substantial matters. Some out-of-teaching materials things that can be a complete suicide in winning a student's enthusiasm can be prevented if you are aware and putting yourself on a student's perspective. Please bear in mind that some things are really subjective and of course your comments are most welcome!

And for Prof. Hornstein and Prof. Malavet, really I love you both and I adore your great works on these courses!

Love,
A student who consistently adore charming Professors :)

Friday, June 13, 2014

Tips for Graduate Enrollment Abroad (Part 1: Medical Check-Up and Preparing Your Grant Contract)

DISCLAIMER: This is supposedly much easier considering I am, unfortunately, under specific unusual circumstances, cannot deny these facts: [...] (4) The fact that my spatial knowledge about Jakarta is really poor and I deliberately exclude buses and public transport to reach necessary agencies considering that it takes much longer than hiring ojek or taxi; (5) The fact that I tried so hard not to sacrifice office hours for all preparatory matters that will be explained below; (6) The fact that I live in Indonesia.

So my story is usual difficulties ++ but it causes the excitement and story behind also ++

Transitions are always tough, and these past few months before my departure to Portland have been really, really tough for me. Although you can ensure yourself and everyone that you're excited and happy and not under pressure, you can't deny the fact that stress symptoms will show itself frequently to you in this phase. Knowing all the things that you must prepare therefore important, and more importantly, knowing the timely manner to prioritize such complicated, never ending arrangements you have to do even for an-only 10 months LL.M. programs abroad.

For Fulbright grantee, this post will only useful for those who already confirm the school. Before it, you will need to prepare: (1) How to fundraise for shortfall (if any); and (2) How to create your Bank Statement and Letter of Guarantee. Although sometimes the two are not easy as well, I refuse to write them as well. Let the individual experience tell you.

Medical Check-up

Both for visa requirement (for US Student it will be J-1 Visa requirement) and the school requirement you have no choice but doing this. This thing will require sufficient amount of energy and time, and it is better for you not to push between office break times. I myself took 5 visits to 3 different institutions because the unavailability of vaccines or test required. The more visit you make, the more energy, time, and money wasted. So, to minimize it, here are some tips:

Fulbright Medical Form: Page 4 of 7

  • Make sure what kind of medical things your visa require and what your school require. Some of them will differ, i.e. specific school will require Meningitis vaccines while your visa don't, and you must satisfy both requirements;
  • In medical requirement, you will normally provided forms. Try to obtain both forms and compare it, ask first to your university whether it is possible to use IIE Forms and provide additional requirements separately;
  • Research the availability of requirements in the Hospitals. Call first to check! Do not go show without knowing what the hospital has. Try to get the hospital with complete packages. It is usually require: (1) General medical check-up (including eye specialist, ear-nose-throat / THT specialis); (2) TB Skin Test; (3) MMR Vaccines (1-2 doses, vary to programs); (4) DPT Vaccines; and (5) Polio Vaccines.
    • Medical check-up will usually consume 1 whole day. It usually opens until afternoon in Mo-Th, and close early in Friday. My suggestion will be: call the hospital first to attempt to make appointment (although sometimes it will not work!) and come very early (like 7.30 or 8am on your intended day). If during the check certain specialist is absent and you the hospital told you to come later, persist to be checked with other available doctor. They must have it so all you need is persistence.
    • Do not assume to get all vaccines in one occasion. Your doctor will not give the permission, unless she/he is totally absent-minded. Injecting vaccines is injecting alien virus to your body, and it consequently will require specific reaction until the body form its antibody. MMR will require 3-4 weeks before you can inject another vaccines, although some doctors will consent with less weeks. You can take DPT and Polio altogether. Try to take TB Skin test in your neutral time, means do not take it altogether with any vaccines. Consult your doctor and try to make appointment in advance for all the subsequent requirements.
    • In some hospital, vaccines are only given in by Pediatrician Clinic. And it's a shame that some administrator will confuse themselves in facing some adults asking for vaccines. If the administrator don't understand, educate them. Tell them that it is visa requirement, and it is confirmed that they can give such vaccines to adults.
    • Price does matter! Do not go to expensive hospitals like Mayapada if you don't really have budget, they charge you ultra high. Ask the price precisely every time you call.
    • You better use the hospital that have had experience to take care of such requirement. First, the form will be in English. Second, you don't have to waste your time too long with some stupid, confuse front desk / receptionist. Some good records including: Fatmawati Hospital (the administrative is chaos, but it's cheap and well-experienced) but they don't have TB Skin Test; another one is MH Thamrin which also cheap and have pretty doctor and hey, they're open in Saturdays! I took the TB Skin Test in Mayapada Hospital and regret it to hell, the indiscipline internist really waste my time and even the security and receptionist seems frustrated of her.
  • Check it yourself and give the completed medical form to your supervisor. Sometimes, if something is incorrect, you have to come again!
  • Keep all medical prove for you to bring abroad with you later. Ask the doctor to remove the vaccine and the mantoux (TB Skin) test stickers and stick it to your medical form.
  • Cost: The price is vary. My fellow in Salatiga spent much less. But please not that higher price will not guarantee higher level of satisfaction. General check-up consumes approximately 550k. MMR can consume 350k, I got punked by Mayapada's 650k's TB Skin Test (the other are approximately 300-400k), and Polio about 50k while DPT vary, the one that makes your body react with fever only for 50k or a little bit more, but the 'good reaction' cost you 150k. Please bring in mind that the price is not only for the vaccine. The price above including the doctor service, which in many case, much higher than the price of the vaccine itself.

Preparing Your Grant Contract

In Fulbright, we call it Terms of Appointment: Academic Year (ToA AY). It should be easy, you will obtain it after or during Pre-Departure Orientation, before or after you give your medical form. But, from a contracting party perspective, you really really need to pay attention to this:

Fulbright ToA: Important Sections

  • Your terms of installment (Grant payment date). This is holy important and is negotiable and indeed you must, must, pay special attention to this. Check your school Deadline for tuition payment and make sure IIE make such installment before the deadline! Make sure the conditions, whether you will charged with penalty if you're late, whether your account will be suspended, etc. And make sure such payment arrangement will not put you into trouble. In some cases when you don't have any shortfall, IIE will pay directly and your allowance will be supplied on monthly basis. If your on campus housing requirement require payment in advance (of each semester), ensure you let IIE knows about this, so they will provide you the money in advance as well.
  • The health insurance is mandatory, and if your school accept Fulbright's insurance, then it's nice for you and you can proceed forward waiving the school insurance which will be replaced by Fulbright's. If not, then you have to find the insurance that meet your school requirement. Usually, you will end up taking your school insurance. It will be covered by your own expense.

Next: What If You Lose Your Passport? (when your departure date is approaching)



Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Over-Improvised Trip: Kupang, Rote dan (Mendadak) Flores


DISCLAIMER: Anda dipersilakan segera menutup halaman ini jika pencarian Anda ditujukan untuk mendapatkan informasi jalan-jalan ‘murah-meriah’ dengan itinerary rapih. Trip ini sangat overpriced, tidak terorganisir, penuh bencana, namun sangat menyenangkan karena kejutan yang tak habis-habis ditawarkannya. Seperti tulisan saya mengenai Labuan Bajo, tulisan ini dibuat dalam bahasa Indonesia karena hanya segelintir pejalan Indonesia yang saya temui. Info yang lebih berguna akan saya lanjutkan dalam rangkaian blogpost berkala sesempatnya.

24 Mei 2014 – 2 Juni 2014

Rute Perjalanan
Kupang – Rote – Kupang – Maumere – Moni – Ende – Ruteng – Wae Rebo – Ruteng – Ende – Moni – Maumere (Cat: Moni & Maumere di bagian akhir perjalanan merupakan perjalanan ‘terpaksa’ karena letusan Gn. Sangiang yang menyebabkan tidak terbangnya pesawat dari Ende)

Major Expenses (approximately)
IDR 1,200k Tiket Jakarta – Kupang
IDR 400k Tiket Kupang – Maumere   
IDR 2,300k Tiket Maumere – Denpasar – Jakarta      
IDR 150k Ferry Kupang – Rote (one way) 
IDR 50k Akomodasi/hari (rata-rata kamar 75k 150k)
IDR 500k – 600k Sewa mobil/hari & supir (exl’ bensin)
IDR 150k Bensin/hari (bergantung jarak)
IDR 30k – 60k Makan dan jajan/hari 
IDR 6,813.5k* TOTAL personal expenses (hedon & happy)
*) Tidak termasuk oleh-oleh


Highlight

Perjalanan ini menghabiskan 10 hari, jutaan rupiah, dan tim ‘ketemu di jalan’ yang senantiasa berganti-ganti dan menyebabkan saya berinteraksi dengan begitu banyak orang-orang yang tak terduga. Setelah niatan saya, Nisa, dan Aso untuk melakukan perjalanan Timor Barat dan Timor Timur kandas lantaran seorang copet apes mengambil dompet saya yang berisi dua ribu rupiah, passport, KTP dan ATM, kami memutuskan tetap berangkat dengan bermodalkan tekad menyelundupkan saya ke Timtim. Sayangnya Tuhan YME mencegah niat buruk itu dengan mempertemukan kami dengan pejalan lain yang memiliki itinerary lebih mumpuni yang mengiming-imingi kami dengan efisiensi ongkos jika kami bergabung. Dengan segala kengileran, maka berubahlah trip Timor kami menjadi trip Timor – Flores.

Ladang padi gogo di pinggiran jalan P. Rote, Kab. Rote-Ndao, NTT

Kupang dan Rote, yang merupakan tujuan awal saat niat kami masih teguh untuk jalan-jalan kere di Timor, kami tempuh dengan sangat efisien pada hari-hari pertama. Kami mendarat siang hari dan menghabiskan hari mengunjungi Pantai Lesiana yang sepi, terpukau dengan babi dan sapi di perkampungan penduduk di sekitarnya, menengok pembuatan tuak menjadi gula aren, dan makan dengan rakus di Pasar Malam dekat pantai Timor setelah kalap melihat ikan kerapu besar seharga IDR 35k. Hari kedua dan ketiga kami habiskan di Rote, lagi-lagi termangu-mangu melihat pantai-pantai dan bukit-bukit yang kosong dengan hanya kuda, sapi, babi, kerbau, kambing, hingga anomali-anomali lain sebagai penguasa jalan. 

Pantai Nemberala, P. Rote (photo by: Untung Sihombing)



Selanjutnya, kekhilafan dimulai semenjak tiket ke Maumere kami beli dengan impulsif melalui koneksi travel, dengan Nisa dan Aso berniat mencapai Kelimutu dan saya berambisi sampai Wae Rebo. Hari keempat kami habiskan di jalan diwarnai obrolan dengan supir kami tersayang, Kak Herman, yang begitu mencapai Moni mengizinkan kami melanjutkan obrolan bersama para supir, orang lokal, dan penjaga villa yang semuanya teman-temannya. Hingga hari kelima kami masih di Moni dan gagal total mendapatkan pemandangan Kelimutu barang sejengkalpun karena kabut yang membuat kami melihat jelas hanya pada jarak pandang 5 meter. 

Pelabuhan Maumere, Kab. Sikka, NTT (photo by: Untung Sihombing)
 
Danau Tiga Warna Kelimutu, Moni, Kab. Ende, NTT

Malam hari kami sampai di Ruteng dan di hari keenam terbengong-bengong lagi dengan sawah berbentuk jarring laba-laba di Cancar dan jalanan panjang dengan ojek ke Denge, desa terakhir yang menjadi titik awal perjalanan ke Wae Rebo. Di hari itu juga, kami mendaki dan menetap di sana hingga hari ketujuh. Begitu turun dan berpisah dengan rombongan, saya langsung diharapkan pada perjalanan dengan drama kejar-kejaran tunggu-tungguan bus Ruteng – Ende hingga saya dan tukang ojek berkomplot membuat skenario demi merayu supir bus agar menunggu saya yang masih di jalan dari Denge. Namun drama tetap berlanjut sampai hari kedelapan, dimana pesawat Ende – Kupang yang sudah hampir boarding memutuskan tidak terbang di detik-detik terakhir karena letusan Gunung Sangiang di P. Sangiang, dekat Sumbawa. Sekalipun demikian, sangat kebetulan bahwa hari itu adalah hari Kesaktian Pancasila yang diperingati sangat meriah di Ende. Hari kesembilan, setelah mengantongi tiket Maumere – Denpasar – Jakarta keesokannya, saya kembali bergerak menuju Maumere dan memutuskan mampir di Ende, mendulang peruntungan saya dengan Kelimutu. Akhirnya, setelah puas dengan Kelimutu jilid II dan dengan ketidaksengajaan ke Maumere, saya bisa bertemu keluarga saya waktu KKN di Palu’e, Kab. Sikka, yang kebetulan menetap di Maumere. Serta tentu, belanja tenun ikat di pasar!

Sawah jaring laba-laba, Cancar, Kab. Manggarai, NTT

Wae Rebo, Kab. Manggarai, NTT

Pantai Batu Hijau, Ende, Kab. Ende, NTT


Kelas menengah memiliki kemewahan untuk dapat bervakansi ke tempat yang jauh seperti Indonesia Timur, serta (selayaknya) kemampuan berpikir untuk mengolah apa yang ditemukan, dirasakan, dilihat untuk kembali menjadi modal dalam perbuatan dan visi kedepannya. Maka pergilah ke Indonesia Timur, lengkapi khazanah kebangsaan Anda dengan pesona timur yang selalu tak terduga. Pulang, dan sadarilah apa yang menjadi pekerjaan rumah kita.