Pendakian Gn. Loser, TN Gunung Leuser via Kedah (3.404 mdpl) -- PART 1

Akhirnya saya menuliskan Leuser -- terima kasih kepada beberapa teman yang mengingatkan janji saya sebelum tahun berakhir: menulis Leuser. Bulan April lalu, tepatnya Senin, 25 April 2016 s.d. Jum'at, 6 Mei 2016, saya mendaki salah satu wishlist gunung impian saya: Gunung Leuser. Terima kasih untuk Dodo yang menikah di Medan, yang memberikan saya alasan untuk terbang ke Medan dan melanjutkan perjalanan ke TN Gunung Leuser. Di sini, saya hanya akan memberikan highlights dari pendakian ini.

Gunung Loser, Leuser atau Taman Nasional Gunung Leuser?

Mendaki Leuser memang cukup membingungkan dimulai dari nama gunungnya. Perlu teman-teman ketahui bahwa "Leuser" sebetulnya merujuk pada Taman Nasional Gunung Leuser (TNGL), yang merupakan kompleks taman nasional yang jauh lebih besar daripada jalur pendakian. Luas TNGL secara total mencakup 1.094.692 Ha, dan secara administrasi terletak di Provinsi Aceh dan Sumatera Utara. Di TNGL, aktivitas petualangan yang bisa dilakukan tidak hanya mendaki. Mengunjungi habitat asli satwa liar (orangutan, badak Sumatera dan harimau Sumatera), mengunjungi lembaga yang mendedikasikan diri dalam konservasi orangutan (ini yang dilakukan Leonardo Di Caprio saat dia berkunjung ke Indonesia), bahkan berkunjung ke kebun-kebun ganja di belantara adalah beberapa aktivitas yang bisa kita lakukan tanpa harus melakukan pendakian ke Gunung Loser / Leuser.

Di sisi lain, Gunung Loser dan Gunung Leuser merupakan bagian dari TNGL, dengan sebagian jalur pendakiannya  termasuk wilayah TNGL. Ingat, Gunung Loser dan Gunung Leuser merupakan gunung yang berbeda, jadi pastikanlah kesepakatan dengan guide jelas menyatakan sampai titik mana kamu akan mendaki. Puncak Loser (3.404 mdpl) sendiri lebih tinggi dari Puncak Leuser (3.119 mdpl). Namun, dari arah Desa Kedah, kamu akan terlebih dulu sampai ke Puncak Loser, dan titik terakhir pendakian justru di Puncak Leuser. Total jarak tempuh pendakian ke Puncak Loser dari Desa Kedah adalah 47 km, sementara ke puncak Leuser kira-kira 50 km.

Jalur Pendakian Gn. Leuser (sumber: TN Gunung Leuser)

Menurut guide saya, dari puncak Loser ke Puncak Leuser membutuhkan waktu 3-5 jam (satu kali jalan) dengan jalur yang cukup terjal. Jadi, jika kamu ingin ke puncak Leuser, pastikan kamu berangkat pagi, membawa peralatan yang cukup (mis: webbing, carabiner) dan logistik yang cukup dari camp terakhir di Lapangan Bola. Pendakian saya hanya sampai ke Puncak Loser (3.404 mdpl), dan kami tidak melanjutkan turun ke Puncak Leuser karena pertimbangan waktu, peralatan, cuaca dan tentu saja mood. Apa yang saya maksud dengan mood? Guide saya, Mister Jaly, berhasil meyakinkan saya bahwa saya harus kembali ke Leuser dan mendaki dari jalur selatan.

Berapa lamakah total pendakian?

Total hari yang saya habiskan di gunung adalah 12 (dua belas) hari, dihitung dari pendakian hari pertama dari Pos Pendakian di Desa Kedah (dimulai "pagi" jam 10.20) hingga saya kembali ke Pintu Rimba di siang hari (jam 14.00). Rata-rata orang menghabiskan 14 (empat belas) hari sejak masuk hutan hingga kembali ke desa. Untuk perempuan, disarankan mengantisipasi perjalanan 16 (enam belas) hari.

Ingat, total waktu pendakian yang dihabiskan di gunung bergantung pada kesiapan fisik kita, jumlah orang dalam rombongan kita (makin banyak orang, perlu mengantisipasi pergerakan yang lebih lama), cuaca dan ketepatan jalur yang kita pilih.

Singkatnya, saya sampai di Puncak Loser pada hari kedelapan (tengah hari) dan langsung turun. Rata-rata kami menghabiskan waktu 6-9 jam per (semenjak meninggalkan pos tempat kami bermalam hingga sampai ke pos bermalam selanjutnya). Terdapat beberapa intermezzo (salah satunya mendapatkan kijang) dalam perjalanan yang membuat kami menghabiskan waktu lebih lama di satu tempat/lainnya. Di beberapa hari, kami berjalan lebih singkat (mis: sudah berkemah jam 3 sore) dengan pertimbangan jarak ke pos selanjutnya terlalu jauh dan ada kemungkinan kami akan berjalan malam jika melanjutkan perjalanan.

Secara umum, bagaimanakah medan pendakian? Apa pos-pos yang ditempuh?

Pos-pos pendakian dapat dilihat di peta Leuser di atas. Secara umum, pendakian ini lebih tepat disebut mendaki "ke Gunung Leuser," karena jalur pendakian Leuser adalah perbukitan yang harus ditempuh sebelum dapat mencapai Gunung Loser dan Leuser. Tidak banyak perbedaan antara pendakian pra dan pasca puncak, karena kontur jalur yang merupakan perbukitan, sehingga "naik dan turun gunung" sebenarnya dilakukan setiap harinya. Pada saat "turun gunung" kembali ke Desa Kedah pun, kita akan menemui bukit-bukit tanjakan yang sangat curam. Saya menghabiskan waktu 5 (lima) hari dan menciderai lutut saya justru ketika kami dalam perjalanan pulang.

Sebagian jalur pendakian Leuser dilihat dari atas pesawat

 Anyway, secara ringkas, beginilah gambaran pos-pos pendakian dan waktu tempuhnya:

Hari 1	10.20 – 12.45 12.45 – 14.15 16.00 – 18.30	Tropical Rainforest Lodge – Tobacco Hut Tobacco Hut – Pintu Rimba Pintu Rimba – Simpang Air [CAMP]
Hari 2	09.00 – 10.00 10.30 – 11.45 13.00 – 15.00 15.15 – 17.30	Simpang Air – Bivak 1 Bivak 1 – Pemandian Burung* Pemandian Burung* – Puncak Angkasan Puncak Angkasan – Kulit Manis I [CAMP]
Hari 3	09.00 – 10.10 11.00 – 12.00 12.40 – 14.30	Kulit Manis I – Kulit Manis II Kulit Manis II – Kulit Manis III Kulit Manis III – Lintasan Badak [CAMP]
Hari 4	08.30 – 10.00 10.30 – 12.15 13.00 – 15.00 15.15 – 15.45 16.30 – 18.00	Pepanji Singamata* Pintu Rimba Padang Rumput* Padang Rumput / Blang Beke Camp Sungai Alas [CAMP]
Hari 5	09.00 – 10.00 10.15 – 12.15 13.10 – 16.30	Camp Sungai Alas – Rantau Panjang Rantau Panjang – Kolam Badak Kolam Badan – Bivak III [CAMP]
Hari 6	09.00 – 10.55 11.45 – 13.50 15.00 – 17.30	Bivak III – Camp Putri Camp Putri – Bivak Kaleng Bivak Kaleng – Bivak Batu [CAMP]
Hari 7	09.00 – 10.30 11.00 – 11.15 11.15 – 12.15 13.00 – 15.00	Bivak Batu – Sungai Krueng Kluet* Sungai Krueng Kluet* – Camp Krueng Kluet Krueng Kluet – Simpang Tanpa Nama Simpang Tanpa Nama – Lapangan Bola [CAMP]
Hari 8	09.00 – 10.00 10.00 – 11.00	Lapangan Bola – Gerbang Puncak Loser Gerbang Puncak Loser – Puncak Loser (Perjalanan kembali s.d. Krueng Kluet) [CAMP]

*) Merupakan shelter interim, bukan camp besar sehingga mungkin tidak tampak di peta

 

 Yang unik, jika kamu sering mendaki di Jawa / gunung-gunung "rekreasi," tentu kamu akan terkejut dengan liarnya Leuser. Di hampir setiap pos hampir tidak ada penanda maupun fasilitas. Informasi mengenai jarak tempuh antar pos juga sangat minim di internet, dan tentunya tidak ada secara fisik di jalur.

Guide saya sangat membantu dalam menentukan titik perhentian kami selanjutnya (dan waktu perhentiannya juga). Rata-rata, dalam sehari kami melewati 3 (tiga) pos. Saya selalu mendapatkan waktu istirahat yang cukup di antara perjalanan dari pos satu ke pos selanjutnya, thanks to cigarette break yang selalu dimanfaatkan guide dan porter saya. Istirahat pendek biasanya dilakukan setelah berjalan 30 menit - 1 jam, saya usahakan maksimum 15 menit. Istirahat panjang berlangsung antara 30 menit - 1 jam, biasanya di pos pendakian atau di shelter interim.

Sekian dulu pengantar singkat pendakian Leuser ini! Selanjutnya, saya akan buatkan tulisan yang lebih detail untuk menceritakan guide dan porter saya, satwa dan tumbuhan yang kami jumpai, hiburan kami di belantara, percakapan-percakapan menarik, manajemen logistik, dan lain-lain! Jika kamu ingin rikues, silakan tinggalkan komentar!

Environmental Autonomy, The Toothless Tiger

Another side-writing from my data collection in Toba Samosir Regency. I don’t mean to insult or shaming anyone, just letting the fact flows a little more to some of us who haven’t known. It’s not an academic writing, and I don’t bring any normative proof or academic analysis, so don’t rely on this for citation in arguing. I make this so you can feel, see from another perspective, and hoping the following elaboration will help anyone who wishes to sense how the system goes in Indonesia, and not oversimplifying things when they deal with anything related to reform in this country.

This time the trophy goes to the local environmental agency of Toba Samosir, whose official name is ‘Local Environmental and Mining Board’. And yes, the miraculous autonomous regime of Toba Samosir mixes the two conflicting bodies – the environmental guardian and destroyer, into one; leaving some chaos and confusion in its internal management. But let’s not talk about it yet.

I must say that the people in this agency is really nice, making me feel bad of writing not-so-good-things about them. They are responsive in picking up the phone, better than some national level government who never picks up the phone or respond to inquiries in proper time. It’s not difficult to make appointment with them and they seem to schedule it well. They let me sneak into EIAs, some company reports on their environmental performance, taking photos of permits, and so on – no suspicion that I might be using those data against them.

However, considering their responsibility and professionalism, I must say they did a bad, really bad job.

Let’s limit this conversation to Asahan River to begin, minimizing your chance to confuse before we dig deeper. The Law delegates many (I mean maaaany) responsibilities to local level government on environmental protection (including permitting, monitoring and enforcement) and environmental management (let’s not talk about this one – it needs a whole book!). One of those is to take care of the water pollution. The local government must study thoroughly what are the conditions needed to ensure a business operation that dump waste into the river will not endanger the river condition and the organism whose life depends on the river – including human. Then, the study result to certain rights, obligation, and prohibition set into the permit – in this case, liquid waste dumping permit. Amongst the study, we must consider the class of the river and its carrying capacity.

“And I’m so curious whast is the class of Asahan river? Its designation, also the water pollution carrying capacity, I can’t find them on Google” – I asked. That man I interviewed, one of the head divisions; said lightly “It has not been determined, Miss,” He continued, “To date, we only have three industries having the liquid waste permit,” Yes, three huge industries, you mean. So, all permits went on without assessment of how bad the river condition was and not taking into account recovery. And all designation continues without counting the possible endangerment inside the river water such as hazardous substances, you mean?

And then, after having issued the permit, local authority surely must be the responsible body to monitor such rights, obligation, and prohibition. The law sets some weird, differing, up to anyone mechanism on this monitoring system (not literally like that but you don’t want hearing me talking about this) and trust it to the local government. Most of the time, the local government trust it solely to the company and keep their hands off this responsibility.

“And how do you publish the data of the ambient water quality?” I asked. And that’s a stupid question because I should’ve begun with “Do you even do the ambient water quality test regularly?” or “Have you determined the exact location (coordinate, I mean) to take samples of the ambient water quality?” or “What is the regular interval you take sample of the water?”. And all the answer is they don’t even do it. Really. They did it once or twice or whatever without any clue of what the law says, and don’t really do something about it (like communicating it to the people).

And what about the effluent control? “Most of the time, we wait for the report from the community if some chaos, like dead fishes, occur,” Oh, and I haven’t mentioned that they haven’t had any complaint and reporting desk, so they usually ‘hear’ it from somewhere. Anyway, they want to make the reporting facilities, they say. Okay, we'll see.

“So how the provincial level governments make the environmental status report? It contains this information and I assume it comes in a bottom-up scheme,” I continued. “Sometimes they involve us in taking the data, but most of the time we will assist them upon request,” the official said. And ‘assist’ actually means top-down coordination from the higher level government.

So, up to this sentence, I will let you guess what this agency does about enforcement. And this is what surprises me the most.

“Yes, that’s actually one of our weaknesses. We don’t have anyone in the law enforcement desk,” he mentioned. Cannot believe what I heard, I asked “But have you ever give any sanction to any company of its violations? Like, during your time serving in this board?” And he mentioned one letter being sent recently to one of the liquid waste dumping permit holder to temporarily stop its operation. I don’t know if he actually confuse between enforcement and temporary stop, because actually the latter is a part of administrative sanction according to our law – while he mentioned no enforcement has ever been conducted. It has made me a bit grateful, but he suddenly added “But we don’t really know if they comply or not, we have not received any follow-up regarding this case,”

And that’s when I think I won’t need any further confirmation on the teeth of environmental law in this country.

“We don’t have the power to supervise and enforce beyond our authority,” I recall what Ministry of Environment Deputy on Law Enforcement told me. And I feel like wanting to write him, “This ‘beyond your authority’ cannot do nothing because they don’t even clear about their structure and work division; nor can reform it since they suffer for amazing rotation of its leader like 7 (seven) changes since 2001; lacking capacity or when they have it they don’t have the budget; they don’t even aware of what are their responsibilities according to the massive amount of regulations at national level,”

No money. No people. No clarity over duty. No leadership.

“And when they have some good people in their structure whom might expose risk to the capital owner, the higher power will kick them straight away,” – simple line that explains everything. One activist told me the story of the Head of that local environmental board who spent 6 months doing really great job, ensuring all obligations met no matter how big the companies are, and readily prepare sanction to non-compliance. And within those 6 months, he was mutated to non-job by the Regent.

I know it has been written in many reports, academic papers, policy brief, etc. But some stories might help people to understand and attached better to these challenges we’re facing, sometimes better than those reports can do. So, here is our challenge, dear brightest stars. We can change it if we want to, but it needs lots of sacrifice. It will question you whether you want to make your feet dirty by stepping into the mud. It will question whether you are strong enough to not be drowned by the mud. It will question you to be creative enough to create a beautiful result of that dirty mud.

And yes, we can start small by demanding.

The Silence of the Victims

“Nothing strengthens authority so much as silence.”
― Leonardo da Vinci 

When everyone who has studied environmental conflicts or victimology might describe this situation I’m trying to explain as ‘common’ – I take the liberty to tell this story from the point of view of mid-class city people who normally can speak boldly to anyone they think annoying their basic rights. It's fine for me to criticize my scholarship, my university, my parents, my employers, when I am equipped with proper argument on my side. And for me, speak what I think is common. Speaking the truth is common. And this is my common sense – as well as everyone else as you can see on people’s blog or opinion or social media.

But some days ago, I recognize that our common sense is not always common. Particularly, not to this people who have been fighting for their homeland; and their clean water and their clean air for decades.

Asahan River at Siruar Village, Toba Samosir

I visited Siruar, a village right at Toba Pulp Lestari’s liquid waste outfall (dumping point) at Asahan River – the place where fight against the gigantic industry has been recorded since early 80s. My goal is to get 50 respondents for my questionnaire, for a research purpose. But it is not only the power of the company that scares me. It is the silence of the people, that they are unwilling to tell their stories and keep it behind their own walls.

“Some month ago, one of the securities of TPL got interviewed by a researcher. Another TPL labor recorded it and gave the video to TPL management. That security who got interviewed was fired some days after,” one of my responded expressed his fears while he’s filling my questionnaire. With fake smile, I comforted him that this is merely for academic purpose and his identity will remain undisclosed. I condemn the company conduct in my head.

Dead fishes were strange. Now, people no longer question it.

The people in Siruar and Porsea have been in the heart of the Toba Pulp Lestari conflict in its prior operation, when the company is still known as Indorayon Inti Utama. The protest begun in 1988, when the persistent victims, who were very strong and solid within the Batak Toba identity, continued to struggled over 2 decades from the soft diplomacy backed by academics and politicians, to the mass and bleeding chaos that takes innocent souls. In this conflict, Professors and Doctors from universities come back to the street, to the indigenous people who lack academic back-ups compared to the huge company. Even mothers and children took part, and one of the most controversial nude protests in Indonesia held by Batak mothers occurred in the late 90s, hottest period of this enduring fight. Even when the legal efforts failed, it has left a strong legacy – the first recognized NGO legal standing in Indonesia was made during the IIU lawsuit conducted by WALHI. Sweet taste of temporary success only lasted a while when IIU operation is closed for by the central government. In Megawati era, the mill began operating again under new paradigm, with the name that those people recognize today with the same power of “you know who” – TPL.

“No one in this village will be willing to speak if you ask them question about TPL. Because we already know what the public officials in the sub-district will do. I will not speak either,” a former activist told me.

After more than 20 years, people at the closest proximity to the mill have finally silenced.

And this silence is scarier for me than the elaboration of the silence of nature that Rachel Carson documented in her monumental Silent Spring. This is the silence of the most distinguished creature on earth who has been gifted with reason, free will, intelligence and conscience. This is the silence of the long-lasting fight who have eventually been forced to give up. This is the silence for money, of the scary trade between sacrificing basic rights and the capitalistic point of necessary growth. This is the silence within the trauma from the entity that should’ve been protecting those individuals, but abusing their power.

And like the sub-disctrict secretary mentioned to us with confidence, “We can’t let just anyone in, even for academic purpose. I don’t dare to let those who wants to take the data regarding environment, or pollution, or anything that can annoy the company. The higher authority will scold. No, it will never be allowed,”

By writing this, I am fully aware that I am exposing myself to libel lawsuit that the company might threatening me with. And that’s the price that I have to pay, in this so-called free and democratic country, to speak of some truth. I’m just hoping this writing will reach out to you, but not to the company, so the people at the village will stay safe. Beware, this is not the authoritarian regime anymore. This is the regime of the capital.

Further readings:

Abdul Wahib Situmorang. 2005. The Toba Batak Fighting for Environmental Justice, 1988 to 2003: Environmental Movement in Indonesia. (Jakarta: WALHI)

PS. Too bad I can't upload more photos of people for safety reason.

Bangka Island, Bangka Belitung

DISCLAIMER: Again, not a backpacker's trip. This was a family trip with my ageing (rockstar) parents, thus the activities are adjusted to their needs and preference.

All beaches in Bangka looks like this. This one is Parai Tenggiri Beach, Sungai Liat

December 28, 2013 - January 1, 2014

Palembang - Pangkalpinang - Palembang

After lengthy considerations, I finally decided to use English for this post since I found no foreigner hanging around this potential island during our trip, while many of the tourists are apparently domestic. This island is definitely charming and have been a considerable destination for decades; the culinary is amazing, but also filled with remarkable stories on environmental degradation caused by illegal tin mining and the silent gap between local and Chinese settlers - a phenomenon you can see in most of Sumatera cities. However in-depth description on some substances aspect will not be made in this writing, since there are too many aspects you can read further. This will only covers some practical guide and description on our trip, which might be useful for you.

Transportation

• Fly is the easiest way. There is direct flight from Palembang to Pangkalpinang (ours was Sriwijaya Air, around 500k on high season one way), or from Jakarta to Pangkalpinang (around 600k);
• By boat. Daily ferries Express Bahari leaves early from Bom Baru harbor, Palembang on 6am, takes 3 hours to reach Muntok harbor, Bangka. If your destination is Pangkalpinang (the capital), you'll have additional 3 hours by car (you can buy a travel ticket);
• To get around the cities: Public transportation is poor. You can hire car (and local drivers) from local provider. Ours was (NAME), Avanza 250k/day without fuel, and 100k/day for the driver, 10% charge for overtime. Contact:

Accommodation

Stay at beaches! Bangka is the island of gigantic stones, and those gigantic stones compose beautiful landscapes around Bangka beaches. The best beaches are located in Sungailiat, about 1 hour away from Pangkalpinang, so if you're interested in listening to the wave all days, staying in Pangkalpinang is not an option. Consider food as well while you pick the hotel, since the best culinary spots are mostly located in Pangkalpinang. However, no backpacker-priced hotels around the beaches (in the cities as well, Bangka hasn't got any backpacker area at all actually), all hotels are above 400k and cheap hostels are not guaranteed neither for its cleanness nor for its reputation. Some options are:

• Parai Beach Hotel located in Sungailiat (Phone: 0717 - 94888), for published rate see here (don't know if it's still update or not, just call for reservation). Apparently, the best beach all around Bangka Island has been discovered and occupied by this private resort. It is also the most recognized hotel in Bangka Island. However it's a bit difficult for meals if you stay in this complex - the restaurant is expensive and no mini mart around.
• Tanjung Pesona Resort, Sungailiat (Phone: 0717 - 94560), a bit interesting but the scenery is not as good as Parai.
• Grand Mutiara Hotel, Pangkalpinang (Phone:), a considerable place to stay if you're looking for good culinary or in a business trip. Read my review in TripAdvisor
• Bring a tent and stay anywhere! Please bring in mind that not all Bangka beaches are safe for camping, beside it's not customary there, only very few travelers hanging around the island. Mind your belongings all the time is recommended.

PLACES TO SEE

Pasir Padi Beach, Pangkalpinang. It's apparently ugly from the face, but as you explore to the right corner of the beach you'll find amazing color of big stones and empty beaches; 

Pasir Padi beach looks so boring at a glance, but do explore!

Bangka Botanical Garden, Pangkalpinang. A really nice 'garden' - is actually private plantation but it's really nice, and there is a cow cattle with sets of cute huge cows like the ones at the bedtime stories cattles;

Indonesia Tin Museum (Museum Timah), Pangkalpinang - a super nice small museum for a small city. The arrangement is interesting, the information given is comprehensive and for common people who doesn't have any knowledge in mining, it's informative enough. There is an interactive film of which you can request to play;

Things to see in Indonesia Tin Museum

For small city like Pangkalpinang, this museum is good enough

Tanjung Pesona Beach, Sungailiat, nice gigantic stones and white sands, but little for exploration. There is a really weird robotic statue standing at the edge of the beach. Entrance fee IDR 10K/15K (weekdays/weekend);

Parai Tenggiri Beach, Sungailiat - the best one so far, no need for spoiler, just go there. The facilities are good but pricey - I bought one magnum for IDR 25k. Make sure you visit the left side of the so-called 'rock island' that looks quiet and isolated;

Behind The Rock Bar of Parai Tenggiri

Matrass Beach, Sungailiat - a nice one with gigantic stones again, from the entrance door, go to the right corner and you'll find green grass with stones appear between the hills, there is a stair to uphill and you can see the scenery of the whole beach, it's nice to see from up there;

Goa Maria, Belinyu, one of my favorite although it's like in the middle of nowhere. There is a really nice garden filled with gigantic old trees with white sands under, making you feel so calm and relax. Beware of the mosquito bites! The otak-otak stall right in front of it is one of the most famous all over Bangka;

Penyusuk Beach, Belinyu, a nice appearance of green grass filled with gigantic stones (remind me of Mt. Padang, takes you back to the stone age), many spaces for exploration. But the water is brown and the wave is high, is so scary feels like you're seeing a mini tsunami. There's an apparently nice island across, in the summer you can hire boat to go there.

Mini tsunami-colored waves, Penyusuk Beach

Penyusuk Beach: Gigantic stones everywhere

What To Eat?

Beside bountiful beaches, the culinary is also amazing. However it's a bit difficult (read: SAD) for those who are allergic to seafood and pork. Go to some other articles for more comprehensive review of the food and drink:

• Mie Koba, noodle with brown shrimp soup, taste sweet; 
• Mie Bangka (the Chinese version of pork noodle), Bakmie Akau stall at Kampung Bintang is great enough with IDR 25k/portion; the one at the market (coulnd't remember the name) is also nice but quite more expensive;
• Lempah (about IDR 60-70k/portion), sweet and sour version of Pindang;
• Some recommended Chinese food: Mr. Asui, Raja Laut Seafood, Liong Ki. Ask the waiter in advance for the halal foods; 
• Grilled pork, usually sold in 'motorcycle stalls' - there are 5 sellers in front of the airport, or you can ask your driver to bring you to any Chinese market;
• Otak-otak in front of Goa Maria, Belinyu.