Disclaimer: (1) Don't hike Kinabalu if you want an adventure. It really taste like holiday, pricey, and way too safe. But if you want well-arranged hike with spectacular view, this mountain is worth visiting; (2) Don't trust my opinion esp. about hiking difficulties, people are different and my common sense is not common.
Margaretha Quina & Agantaranansa Juanda
May 12-13, 2013
Planning a hike to Kinabalu is kinda depressing. It's pricey, with very limited information given by the government for self-arranged trip, tour services monopolize the mountain, too many terms & conditions, and too little room for improvisation. I (probably) have lost several important stuffs in my mind due to delay of writing, so I better write before forgetting more - just to make it's easier for you to choose your way.
How's the Trek?
Although it's well-arranged, I can't say Kinabalu is an easy hike. You can find all the information in the amazing Wikitravel: Mount Kinabalu (they updated it for God's sake it's the information given is so complete!), and yes, you can't use any other trail other than these 2 (except for the special adventure trail but you have to make special arrangement with the rangers right there). Here's the highlight:
The two treks meet at Laban Rata, and hikers are normally rest there for one night. The route onward is the most exciting part of the trek, begin with steep rocky trail (sometimes you'll find stairs) and after about 1 hour you'll see the outer-space other-planet-looking rocks. Bare rocks. With unique shape, so inviting to jump here and there. Personal opinion: (Pardon my uncivilized Tarzan-manner), the safety standards imposed to the hikers are too cautious, they put long rope along the trail and require all hikers to hold tight to that rope all the way. In some very steep rocks it make sense (although those are useless for me, prefer to hold none), but most of the way you better off that (I really wanna take the guide to Mt. Merapi to let them learn hiking safely with more appropriate equipment). The queue to the top is very tiring for me, I was so impatient and excited with all the rocks, and all the guide treated me like I am no different than other tourists who never climb (in Indonesian, you can shout to me: congkak!)
Take via Feratta, or not?
You better take the Feratta, that's the highest Feratta in the world, and although the equipment is very complete (or you prefer hiking Mt. Raung), you'll still probably feel the thrill of being in a very steep rocks with no place to hold (use your imagination, although you're actually completely tied to your equipment). No idea about what is Feratta? First, see this picture. Two, google it!
One, Two, or How Many Days?
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| Best feature of this mountain: it looks like on the other planet |
Margaretha Quina & Agantaranansa Juanda
May 12-13, 2013
Planning a hike to Kinabalu is kinda depressing. It's pricey, with very limited information given by the government for self-arranged trip, tour services monopolize the mountain, too many terms & conditions, and too little room for improvisation. I (probably) have lost several important stuffs in my mind due to delay of writing, so I better write before forgetting more - just to make it's easier for you to choose your way.
How's the Trek?
Although it's well-arranged, I can't say Kinabalu is an easy hike. You can find all the information in the amazing Wikitravel: Mount Kinabalu (they updated it for God's sake it's the information given is so complete!), and yes, you can't use any other trail other than these 2 (except for the special adventure trail but you have to make special arrangement with the rangers right there). Here's the highlight:
- Timpohon Trail: We did this route. That's way too well-managed, you'll find waterfall(s) and see kilometers information every 500m or so. You'll hike quite-steep trail until Laban Rata, mostly rocky and sometimes you find roots over the land, but don't worry since the route is very very established and you'll find too many stairs. The forest is so-so, mostly green but not covered darkly with trees. They have toilets and shelter about every 1 km; and you can actually drink from the water tab (the water is untreated but who cares);
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| This is how Timpohon trek looks like |
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| Some of the pleasure you'll find: unique plants |
- Mesilau Trail: For jungle trekking, choose this more-natural, richer in biodiversity, longer route, but not as steep as Timpohon. Many researchers use this route, thanks to its well-preserved species. But some references says that the facilities aren't as settled as Timpohon trail. And the road is a bit dusty I guess. You can find Nephentes and many varieties of orchids in this route (if you're lucky enough) - I myself really wanna try this. (cheat this to see opinion abt Mesilau)
The two treks meet at Laban Rata, and hikers are normally rest there for one night. The route onward is the most exciting part of the trek, begin with steep rocky trail (sometimes you'll find stairs) and after about 1 hour you'll see the outer-space other-planet-looking rocks. Bare rocks. With unique shape, so inviting to jump here and there. Personal opinion: (Pardon my uncivilized Tarzan-manner), the safety standards imposed to the hikers are too cautious, they put long rope along the trail and require all hikers to hold tight to that rope all the way. In some very steep rocks it make sense (although those are useless for me, prefer to hold none), but most of the way you better off that (I really wanna take the guide to Mt. Merapi to let them learn hiking safely with more appropriate equipment). The queue to the top is very tiring for me, I was so impatient and excited with all the rocks, and all the guide treated me like I am no different than other tourists who never climb (in Indonesian, you can shout to me: congkak!)
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| Evening rest at Pendant Hut (or any other hut) is one of the best activity at Kinabalu |
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| View from the top |
Take via Feratta, or not?
You better take the Feratta, that's the highest Feratta in the world, and although the equipment is very complete (or you prefer hiking Mt. Raung), you'll still probably feel the thrill of being in a very steep rocks with no place to hold (use your imagination, although you're actually completely tied to your equipment). No idea about what is Feratta? First, see this picture. Two, google it!
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| It looks easy but not so. |
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| Worst record for this Feratta is 13 hours. Most people did 6-7 hours, we did 4 hours. |
One, Two, or How Many Days?
One day trip is not impossible and much cheaper. Just make sure you are very fit, able to hike around 9 kms up and down in about 12 hours at maximum, and arrive at the headquarter one day earlier to arrange the trip. Bring these in mind:
- One of the review from KajsaoBjorn in 2011, for Trip Advisor is a nice reference, it answers your concern, but the price has increasing much since then. Update: Guide fee is 100RM now, if you need porter it's 10RM/kg (but better leave all your unimportant belonging at Sutera Sanctuary for 10RM/item). Know not the rest.
- Total cost: about RM 250.
- Only 4 people/day are allowed to do one day hike. You'll be questioned (and tested) about your fitness level and hiking / marathon experience.
- Make sure your guide is good enough, and don't take the one day (non-summit) hike offered by many agents, you won't reach any peak since they'll only take you to Layang-layang, still afar from the peak.
- You will start hiking around 9am, and if you do via Feratta you'll have to reach the hut (they manage all the via Feratta participant in Pendant Hut) by 3pm at the latest. Your first day activity stops here, you will enjoy the warmth of the hut, buffet menu, coffee & tea free-access along the day.
- Summit starts about 2-3am and you'll normally reach the peak by 5am.
- You'll have to descend and reach (I forgot the name but it's approximately 30 minutes only) the starting point of via Feratta by 7am.
- Total cost for foreigner: RM 1400 - 1500 via Feratta, RM 1100 for non-Feratta.
Three days or more - leisure. Only if you need more time sleeping at the hut, enjoying the view, drinking coffee and tea or doing Bjork's Hyperballad. You actually can stay there forever, but the huts are expensive.
Too bad: It's very difficult to book your accommodation by yourself. You can try to call, but try to reserve from 3-4 months before to secure your room since you'll face tight competition with travel agents. Cheapest choice is dorm, unfortunately some requires direct phone calls to secure dorm.
The Price
Expensive. Basically Sabah Parks distinguish the rate for Sabah Resident (they have special price for only 25 people per month). We book through Amazing Borneo who claim to be official tour, paid SGD 671/pax (around IDR 5,100k) for a two day hike plus via Feratta, including meals (one of them was buffet!), bed & sleeping bag, western-style toilet, free coffee & tea.
Accommodation & Meals
No tent. No matter what, you can't camp up there. But it's a nice experience to stay in a cabin-shaped lodge with nice lighting and complete logistic for your comfort. The picture above shows my favorite spot at Pendant Hut. You'll get your meal supply sufficiently (3 times a day, even they pack your lunch during your hike), but be ready with one liter-sized bottle and snacks for summit. The best and most famous hut is Laban Rata (you can see it from the window in picture above), but there are many options up there and apparently all is okay (mine, Pendant, was really good, but that's only for those who book for Feratta). Those huts located close one to another, since most of the hikers will eat at the restaurant which is a separated complex from all of the huts. For more details on the huts price, check the Wikitravel.
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| Nice living room, warm bed & sleeping bag, western-standard toilets, electricity. Too much for a mountain. |
Too bad: It's very difficult to book your accommodation by yourself. You can try to call, but try to reserve from 3-4 months before to secure your room since you'll face tight competition with travel agents. Cheapest choice is dorm, unfortunately some requires direct phone calls to secure dorm.
P.S. Thank you for Air Asia ID for the IDR 750k return ticket! You made me less broke on this trip.
